Culinary shows abound in films and on television. Chefs are on pedestals. We watch, fascinated, TV shows like “Top Chef,” Anthony Bourdain on his culinary adventures or films like “Julie & Julia” and “Burnt.” The story of Jake Bickelhaupt, underground chef, as he and his wife - Alexa Welsh - create an outlaw restaurant in their apartment and then move onward, is the story of the documentary “42 Grams” (2017)(82 min.).
Jake, an experienced and creative chef, opines that chefs don’t know how to cook and criticizes others as robots working on assembly lines, painting by numbers. He, on the other hand, creates something that doesn’t really exist, unique combinations of ingredients, exquisitely designed and clearly one-of-a-kind. They start up “Sous Rising,” their home-based restaurant, under the watchful eye of filmmaker Jack C. Newell. Jake creates and Alexa manages and also serves 15-course tasting menus to the delight of customers lucky enough to know of this place and get a coveted seat. Alexa remarks: “You’re crazy to think people will pay money to come to your house.” But they do, day after day.
After 18-months of success, they open a brick-and-mortar restaurant - named 42 Grams - based on the belief that the soul weighs 21 grams and combined, totals 42. With a rotating number of assistants, Jake creates 3- or 4-bite food items after great reflection and experimentation. An incredible amount of work goes into planning each tasty creation. For example, he labors over a dessert with these ingredients:
roasted banana
brown butter crumbles
tamarind gelato (maybe a teaspoonful)
shaved hazelnut
canelé (itself resulting from experimenting with ingredients and cooking methods)
bubblegum hyssop (a minty plant - I had to look this one up)
Jake passionately creates “a feeling” each time he succeeds in designing a unique food item. He relishes that he is cooking by combining science and art. He seeks to find his own voice, “trying to make a new language,” in his words. He brings on and trains staff, usually just one at a time, but it is a revolving door most likely due to his abrasiveness and occasional short temper.
And what are the results of this intensive focus? After being open just 10 months, 42 Grams receives the coveted nod from The Michelin Guide, receiving not just one star, but two, virtually unheard of for a new restaurant. This two (out of three) star rating is defined as noting “excellent cooking, worth a detour.” Chicago, at this time, had just 20 one-star restaurants, 3 two-star, and 1 three-star; in fact, in the entire U.S. there were only 18 two-star restaurants then.
The film is written and directed by Jack C. Newell, the Program Director of The Harold Ramis Film School at The Second City Training Center and also co-creator of The Wabash Lights, a light installation on the underside of train tracks in downtown Chicago. Newell captures an unfiltered look at this complex food genius and his supportive wife and business partner. The personal strain on each of them and their marriage is evident without being overstated. During this rise to acclamation, they realize they only have 42 Grams - no friends, no travel, no real marriage.
In the end, is the validation that resulted from the two-star rating worth it? Is connecting to strangers by producing truly unique food selections fulfilling in a lasting way? These are the questions with which I was left as I viewed 42 Grams. This film offers a thoughtful, engaging and compelling look at a unique chef and his partner. Taking a risk to pursue a dream is always a leap, and 42 Grams allows us to share this journey.
It screens on Saturday, January 27th at 1 PM at The Guild Theater in Nob Hill, 3405 Central Avenue NE Albuquerque, NM. You can call (505) 255-1848 or check The Guild’s website for more information. http://www.guildcinema.com/ Here is a link to the trailer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvnm2jRyQR0
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